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Improving the Lazarette

 
   

One of the great features of the Bristol 29 is her lazarette. It's like a small garage; you could turn it into a small stateroom for the kids. It is large enough to step into and work under the aft deck and side decks and offers a lot of storage. However, there is no provision to keep stowed gear from banging around and the angle of the hull at the stern is such that it is not especially safe to stand in the lazarette in any kind of a seaway. So for this refit I will improve the lazarette by adding:

  • Floorboards that can be removed quickly in an emergency

  • Some sort of storage system,

  • New wiring and,

  • Other things that I haven't yet thought of.

 

Floorboards

The first order of business is to fashion a level brace against the inside of the transom. So I took some pine 2x4 material and cut a small block, shaped to the angles of the transom and the two sides of the bottom. I positioned it level in both orientations in some thickened epoxy and let it cure.  Then I shaped a slightly longer piece out of pine, with the same angle as the transom to sit on top of the block. Again, I encapsulated everything in epoxy and let it cure. Finally, I took a piece of scrap teak, longer still, shaped the back edge to the angle of the transom and epoxied it in place. Later I glassed the edges of the teak brace with several layers of 6 oz fiberglass tape.

To fill the deep vee cavity where the two sides of the hull come together, I shaped a 40" piece of pine roughly to the same shape and sat it in thickened epoxy and then filled the side edges flush with the hull form. Finally to strengthen everything and give a fair surface I glassed over the board and the bottom of the hull with three layers of 24 oz biax. After the biax cured, I sanded everything smooth to eliminate the splinter glass edges and faired everything smooth with thickened epoxy.

Next, I cut some 1/2 plywood to create an extension down to the hull of the forward bulkhead. I encapsulated it in epoxy and painted it. Then, since I had a few Perko vent grills laying around, I cut some vent holes and fastened the grills in place. The horizontal cleat will serve as the forward brace for the floorboard. Finally, I glued down some cleat stock that I will attach some eye straps to to lash some webbing in place.

For the floorboard, I used a 24" x 24" 1/2" thick plywood, and two poplar fiddles. I encapsulated the whole thing in epoxy an so far have painted it with epoxy primer. It fits nicely in place and I ordered some nice brass barrel bolts to lock it down for my turn it upside down and shake test.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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