Photos of my masthead

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New masthead for the Bristol
	This is the masthead made in 1995 by MetalMast Marine (DCProducts 860-908-9409 AKA Metalmast) . The work is highly professional at a very reasonable cost. I had the new masthead built, as you have probably read elsewhere in this site, because the Bristol masthead box is open, allowing rain to run down the mast to the mast step, and allowing the halyards to jump their sheaves. The new masthead prevents both and seals the mast airtight.
	A shot of the side of the masthead and the masthead light bracket for the OMG LED tricolor and anchor light. Forgive the sawdust on the masthead in these photos.
	Here you can clearly see the spinnaker crane and its bracing.
	This is the forward side of the masthead showing the forward sheaves and the forestay clevis and toggle. I always toggle the forestay at both ends.
	Here, in the enlargement, you can see the nylon washers I added on each side of the forestay toggle. They prevent the toggle from chaffing the side of the aluminum masthead box.
	This is the aft side of the masthead showing the clevis pins for the backstay terminal and the topping lift block.
	In this enlargement you can see how I use some plastic hose cut to fit on each side of the backstay eye terminal (upper) and the topping lift turning block (lower). The hose prevents chafe against the side of the aluminum masthead box and quiets the topping lift block when the mainsail is slatting.
	Here you can clearly see the level of welding in the base of the masthead.
	I have decided to mount a strobe to the masthead to use as a signal and a safety measure at sea. I will use two of the wires from the bundle for the old Signet anemometer that I will replace soon with a Tacktick wireless anemometer. The strobe is weather proof and cost about $10.00. It uses virtually no current at all and weighs only a few ounces.
	Somehow I need to mount the strobe on top of the OGM unit and not block it. The strobe mounds with two #8 machine screws.
	I used some thin fiberglass sheeting from McMaster Carr and cut out a shape that I could glue to the top of the OGM light and extend forward enough to mount the strobe to. I sprayed it gray with some spray paint.
	Here you can see that I have glued the base plate to the top of the OGM light using silicone sealant, and positioned the strobe on top.
	Here is how the strobe is oriented.
	And a closer shot. I will clean up the wiring and prevent it from chafing and it will be finished.